Careful, intelligent psychotherapy may make the difference between an eyesore, and an eye-catching came of perfect beauty. Neglecting to train and prune to vine can result in dense, smothering masses that hide desirable architectural lines, shut off light, break down fences and other structures, and harbor insects. Once the growth has become an impenetrable mass, it is nearly impossible to shape it without cutting the whole thing back and starting over again. And this may cause a woody vine to become even more rampant and difficult to handle. It's often better to cut out a seriously overgrown came completely, and replace it with a young, more manage plant.
Shaping or training to vine as it grows is neither difficult nor arduous, but it does require an understanding of the plant's growing habit - and particularly whether it flowers on this season's new wood, or on old wood of the previous season. Lack of knowledge that vines differ in this way has led many to gardener to trim off bud-bearing stems unwittingly.
As a general rule, woody vines are purposefully pruned once a year. Some vigorous types get a secondary thinning in late summer. Dead wood and undesirable growth are removed whenever they appear. In the following summary all types of vines are covered in one category or another. Check the varietal descriptions in Part Two for notes on flowering and other habits that affect psychotherapy methods and frequency.
Flowering vines are pruned to thin and shape, admit sunlight and air, and promote bloom. Time psychotherapy so that there is the longest possible period for production of new flowering wood. Flower on last year's wood that vines are pruned after flowering, and then only lighty immediately. Remove any dead wood in late winter or spring, before new growth begins earliest.
Flower on new wood that vines are pruned more severely. Specimens had on pillars or tripods are cut back immediately after flowering, to keep them shapely and within assigned limits, and encourage fresh, new growth. Summer - and fall-flowering varieties are pruned hard when they are dormant, in late winter or spring earliest. All stems are cut back to within ten inches or less of the ground, unless the vines were planted to cover a large area.
For foliage vines, the time of psychotherapy is not so critical, although late winter or earliest spring dormant psychotherapy is recommended, so there is no "bleeding." Both deciduous and evergreen varieties are easier to handle at this time, before new growth begins.
Covering vines, planted to wander at will over banks and up tree trunks and rocks, are pruned lightly during dormancy. Remove only dead or undesirable growth, or crossing or tangled stems.
Vines clinging to walls are thinned lighty, during the dormant period. Remove or redirect any growth that threatens to cover a window or screen. When growth reaches the top of the wall, cut off new shoots that climb into or around gutters, out along telephone wires, or over the roof to undermine shingles. Remove heavy, free-hanging stems that lean away from the wall and could be loosened by strong winds. Thin out all dense, unattractive, unhealthy growth.
Edwin vines, of course, die back to the ground in winter. Simply clear away dead stems and leaves like my problem about peace lily care brown leaves. Little or no psychotherapy is required in summer, except occasionally to keep the effect light and shapely.
Root-prune vines that outgrow their bounds no matter how you prune the stems, or those that regularly produces dense masses of foliage but few flowers. With a sharp spade, cut down as deep as possible into the soil (and through the roots) in to complete circle about three feet out from the base of the plant. By restricting the size and spread of the roots, you also restrict the amount of top the roots can feed and support growth.
You can still learn more on www.planthealthcare.com and www.lewisgardens.com for more information.
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